Hou wood - does it need finish?

I just purchased my first Japanese carbon steel blade knife, a Tojiro white steel #2 petty 120 mm from Coutellier NOLA, kurouchi finish on the blade. I'd like opinions on putting linseed oil finish on the hou wood, and filling the hole in the joint between the blade and the handle with cyanoacrylate to make it more hygienic. I've done absolutely nothing with the knife, pure stock so far. I have previously used a 50/50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine finish on dry wood handles, such as ironwood from Louisiana (hornbeam). It takes several coats, and some time and rubbing between coats, but is very durable and waterproof. I guess my basic question is, does the hou wood need protection to prevent staining and make the handle more hygienic?

 

Just put a drop of water on the end of the handle, wood soaked it up immediately. Decision made, it will get a linseed oil finish.

 

I have a nice Masakage that I opted to leave natural and though I think it gives you a bit more grip, it has acquired a rather dingy look that can't be cleaned easily. Looking back on it, I wish I'd have oiled it.
I have a canoe paddle in ash that was made with the palm grip unfinished. I put a couple coats of linseed oil on it and it feels good and has held up for years.

 

Definately, maybe even give it a sanding before, may bring out some looks in the simplest of woods. I like tru-oil, but it's linsseed based, just hardens faster. I rub a drop out and wipe off hard with a cloth immediately, let harden and repeat 7-15 times.

 

Thanks, Robin. I've used Tru-oil on gunstocks, sanded and left the mud to harden, to fill the pores of walnut. I've got a couple of knives about this size, so I'm not in a hurry, will probably dunk it in 50/50 linseed and turpentine and let it soak in, rub off, a few times. Any suggestion to keep the tang/handle joint sanitary? If I like the blade, I'll probably re-handle it, possibly with ziricote and buffalo horn.

 

Cool yes linsseed/turpentine is always nice as well

I seal with epoxy, can be a bit fiddly, but I prefer it to ca as ca can "want to" climb the blades with what looks like hardened fumes, epoxy is slower so easier to make it look nice. I wait for the geling phase and wipe down with alcohol.

 

Thanks again. I dunked it yesterday evening, wiped off excess last night. I wipe off epoxy with acetone.When I've had to disassemble epoxied knives, I preheat the oven to 350 F, turn it off, and put the knife in on a tray. Wait about 5 minutes, and the epoxy will be separable. 350F shouldn't change the temper.

 

In a home oven I would say you could affect the temper (on atleast a knife from me) as it's tempered just about there, and a typical home oven usually have pretty large temp swings. For this route I would put the knife protected by something thickish above, to even out temp swings, and use maybe 10-20 degrees lower.

 

I have left certain Ho wood handles stock so I get in increased grip from them when wet. I still treat them with Mineral Oil and a Board Wax combo (Beeswax, Mineral oil, Carnauba wax, or Coconut oil). Provides some stain protection without loosing all gripyness. The dry time on plain boiled linseed oil without adding distillates or chemicals takes forever to dry. It's painfully slow to me. I have been using Tung oil and more recent Tru Oil.

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