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Hot weekend.

Discussion in 'Caublestone Cutlery' started by Daniel Cauble, Jul 1, 2018.

  1. Welded up some billets (sanmai) for future blades. W2/1018(mild), 125sc/1018, W2/410(stainless), 125sc/410, and some 9 fold Orishigane (for core steel was also mostly made up at an earlier date. Simply drew out to barstock this day).


    Cross section of W2/410(stainless). Showing carbon diffusion.
  2. Toothpick

    Toothpick #2 since day #1 Founding Member

  3. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    That looks great Daniel. In that piece of sanmei in your hand, would you typically draw that out to a thinner cross section? I know that is a cut off, but in the parent bar?
  4. Oh yea. It had drawn out too long for the forge. Those bars will be cut in half and then drawn out to final thickness. I typically thin them out to .125" or less.Depending on end product.
  5. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    Thank you. Say in a kitchen knife like a 210 gyuto, would you forge in the bevels or shape the profile and take it to the grinder? Is it hard to keep the core centered through all this, or does it happen naturally?
  6. Typically since most of it is really thin already, aside from forging in the distal taper, and maybe some taper to the edge, it is profiled and then taken to the grinder. There isnt much to bevel once you start getting into .100" spine thickness, unless you purposely want a shinogi, where even then its only pulling the seperation of jacket to core a hair closer to the edge.

    It can be difficult to keep the core centered at times, but it depends on how i forge it. Flat dies as opposed to my round upper die that mimics the dies used in spring hammers in Japan both have their challenges and good and bad. My flats can keep it centered almost as well as a rolling mill.
  7. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    Thanks Daniel

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