1. Welcome to the KKF! Please take a moment to register and stop by the New Member Check-In and say hello. We sincerely hope you enjoy your stay and the discussion of all things sharp. Feel free to jump right in on the conversation or make your own. We have an edge on life!
    Dismiss Notice
  2. Take a look at our new AUCTION SYSTEM

    This service is available to all KKFora members to both Bid on and Auction off (Sell)items.
    Dismiss Notice

Hot weekend.

Discussion in 'Caublestone Cutlery' started by Daniel Cauble, Jul 1, 2018.

  1. Daniel Cauble

    Daniel Cauble Professional Craftsman

    Welded up some billets (sanmai) for future blades. W2/1018(mild), 125sc/1018, W2/410(stainless), 125sc/410, and some 9 fold Orishigane (for core steel was also mostly made up at an earlier date. Simply drew out to barstock this day).


    20180630_193140.jpg


    Cross section of W2/410(stainless). Showing carbon diffusion.
    20180701_170029.jpg
     
  2. Toothpick

    Toothpick #2 since day #1 Founding Member

  3. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    That looks great Daniel. In that piece of sanmei in your hand, would you typically draw that out to a thinner cross section? I know that is a cut off, but in the parent bar?
     
  4. Daniel Cauble

    Daniel Cauble Professional Craftsman

    Oh yea. It had drawn out too long for the forge. Those bars will be cut in half and then drawn out to final thickness. I typically thin them out to .125" or less.Depending on end product.
     
  5. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    Thank you. Say in a kitchen knife like a 210 gyuto, would you forge in the bevels or shape the profile and take it to the grinder? Is it hard to keep the core centered through all this, or does it happen naturally?
     
  6. Daniel Cauble

    Daniel Cauble Professional Craftsman

    Typically since most of it is really thin already, aside from forging in the distal taper, and maybe some taper to the edge, it is profiled and then taken to the grinder. There isnt much to bevel once you start getting into .100" spine thickness, unless you purposely want a shinogi, where even then its only pulling the seperation of jacket to core a hair closer to the edge.

    It can be difficult to keep the core centered at times, but it depends on how i forge it. Flat dies as opposed to my round upper die that mimics the dies used in spring hammers in Japan both have their challenges and good and bad. My flats can keep it centered almost as well as a rolling mill.
     
  7. MotoMike

    MotoMike Founding Member

    Thanks Daniel
     

Share This Page